The Unnoticed
Have you seen this new hybrid place, at once a “trendy” table, a “cozy” tea room and an “arty” bookstore? Somewhere in the bustling rue Beaubourg, between Center Pompidou and Arts-et-Métiers, L'Inouvert appeared in March, without warning. At first glance, the address looks like one of those fashionistas who focus everything on appearances: the decor, in marble and concrete, is neat, the furniture matches. But, happy surprise, the cuisine is stimulating and the relationship with the customer is authentic.
Plate beet of the Unnoticed
Designed by Christian Compos, the menu is built around plants. Here, the vegetable is at the center, not a simple accompaniment. He's the main character, not a supporting role. However, this is not a vegetarian restaurant. The quantity of protein is controlled but present.
In three starters, seven main courses and three desserts, the Franco-Italian chef interprets bistronomic and traditional cuisine, simple and sophisticated, organic and intellectual. On each plate, a host of ingredients harmonize around a vegetable, as in this starter from beet prepared as a carpaccio, with a lichette of Fourme d'Ambert, roasted hazelnuts, red onion pickle jelly and smoked vinaigrette (€9). Not a bad way to start the session.
To be continued: Oysters pimped with a yuzu ginger granita drizzled with coriander oil and vegetable pearls (€15). But other diners opt for theendive braised, with clementine caramel and seared scallops (€25) and others for leek roasted with miso, tamago eggs, orange caviar, sesame vinaigrette (€17).
Table of the Unnoticed
Effective desserts also attract a round of applause: pear poached 70% dark chocolate sauce, roasted hazelnuts, cinnamon crumble, chili oil (€8). Or : apple mini version of tarte tatin, caramel with cider vinegar (€6). Or: chestnut fondant, cream whipped with mascarpone, black sesame tiles (€10).
A short menu, pretty plates, a touch of Asian flavors and a pinch of fusion cuisine, all accompanied by wines from the cellar of sommelier Jeremy Lipszyc... No doubt, L'Inouvert caught our eye!
▼ The Unnoticed
65, rue Beaubourg, 75003 Paris
Tuesday to Saturday from 12 p.m. to 22:30 p.m.
Sunday from 12:30 p.m. to 19 p.m.
Tel: +01 42 72 69 81
Unnoticed Bookstore
Text: Katia Barillot
15.05.23
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